From the window of the plane, the dark jagged volcanic stone, terraced farmland and maquis shrubland that characterize the Isola di Pantelleria will unfold beneath you. Pantelleria wasn’t on my radar when I began planning my trip. However, when I discovered I could actually get there, it became the relaxing end to my seventeen-day road trip around Sicily. And, it can be for you too!
The largest of Sicily’s satellite islands lies in the strait of Sicily between northern Africa and Sicily’s southwest coast. Less than 40 miles from Tunisia and 62 miles from Sicily, the Black Pearl of the Mediterranean, is a volcanic protrusion. The last eruption occurred underwater in 1891. However, active hot springs and fumaroles are evidence of its continuous volcanic activity. While you won’t find sandy shores along Pantelleria’s coast, the island boasts natural wonders and supplies the feeling of time standing still.
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11 Things to Do: Isola di Pantelleria
Thinking about traveling to Sicily? Why not spend a few days on the Isola di Pantelleria and check out these 11 things to do and see while you’re visiting!
Read more: Sicily Holiday: Sicily’s Best 10 Things to Do and See
Go Swimming, Diving, & Snorkeling in the Mediterranean
The ever-changing cerulean of the Mediterranean surrounding the coast of Pantelleria constantly entices and the island doesn’t fall short of offering some of the best spots to swim, dive, snorkel or sunbathe.
Balata dei Turchi
Lava spills that once flowed into the Mediterranean Sea left behind the balata or large flat rocks. At the southern most point of the island, the Balata dei Turchi creates the perfect spot to swim and sunbathe. I didn’t make it because of rain, but it’s probably the best spot to swim on the island.
TIP: The road down to the sea is dirt, like many on the island, and may seem impassable. Just keep going until you get to the end, you’ll likely see at least one other car parked, depending on the season you’re visiting.
Laghetto delle Odine
Carved from lava rocks, the “pond of the ripples” formed a saltwater lake on the east coast of Pantelleria. On a calm and sunny day, the small pond offers up its blue-green bath-like water, adding another incredible spot to swim and sunbathe on the island.
TIP: Park near the Spadillo Lighthouse and follow the signs along the path, first passing by a handful of abandoned WWII barracks. Alternatively, you can park west at a small lot off Str. Perimetrale dietro Isola, following the Cala Cinque Denti path east to the pond. As with most swimming spots on the island, you’ll need to climb down rocks to get to the Laghetto delle Odine.
Luxuriate in Natural Open-Air Spa Culture
For such a small island, it doesn’t lack when it comes to pampering yourself with the most natural of experiences. Whether treating your mind, body, or soul, the therapeutic nature of Pantelleria provides. Even better, they’re all located among beautiful backdrops, most with sea views!
Lago Specchio di Venere
The heart-shaped natural lake, Mirror Lake of Venus, formed in a volcanic crater on the northeast of the island. The lake continuously fills with rainwater and hot springs. The tiny bubbles that gently push up through the sand of the aquamarine water provide a sumptuously restorative experience. Do as the locals and slather yourself with the therapeutic mineral-rich mud. Let it dry before rinsing off with a swim to the center, emerging feeling refreshed and rejuvenated. Your skin will thank you!
TIP: There is no shade nor umbrellas or dressing rooms/restrooms available. Go in a swimsuit with a towel, water and snacks. There is a restaurant located on one end of the lake and a farm store selling local products.
Gadir Thermal Bath
A public bath of sorts, the “hidden place” is nestled into the lava stone at Punta Karace near Gadir’s small harbor. The therapeutic mineral-rich seawater can reach temperatures of 60 degrees centigrade making for a relaxing soak. Apparently, the algae that grow in the mini pools (within the rocks) are also beneficial.
TIP: Use the free parking lot on the left at the top of the hill before reaching the harbor in Gadir.
Bagno Asciutto Grotta Benikula
A short walk from the parking lot, just on the edge of Pantelleria’s national park, the “dry bath” is a fissure in the mountainside forever delivering wisps of mineral-rich steam. About a dozen people can fit inside at a time, occasionally switching off when needing a breath of fresh air. Sitting in the damp darkness with a handful of locals, I only lasted about five minutes before retreating. There is a small overlook with a few benches and views of the terraced land and sea beyond. The north coast of Africa is even visible on a clear day!
TIP: Go prepared, as there are no facilities. Wear a swimsuit and bring a towel and water. The walk to the sauna is not too difficult however; the path is quite rocky, so mind your step!
Indulge at Local Wineries & Vineyards
Low-growing grape vines queued up among terraces intersect tall lava stone walls across the island where the traditional cultivation “vite ad alberello” is still practiced. The agricultural practice of cultivating the saplings into head-trained bush vines has recently been added to the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List.
The list aims to protect and preserve the cultural heritage of the inductees and highlight their significance. Considering the incessant winds, that forever batter the island and the high temperatures it sustains, it is no surprise this agricultural community’s tradition made the list.
Zibbibo Grape
At the many wineries on Pantelleria, you’ll have the chance to taste the famous sweet wines Moscato Passito di Pantelleria and Moscato di Pantelleria. Both granted DOC status, are made from the local Zibbibo (raisin) grape, also known as Muscat of Alexandria, as it’s thought to have originated near Alexandria in Egypt.
Visiting wineries and vineyards is one of my favorite things to do; unfortunately, I didn’t visit any while on the Isola di Pantelleria. As I’m still kicking myself for not planning better, I’ll share where I would have given an arm to taste the sweet nectar of the Zibbibo grape.
Azienda Agricola D’Ancona
Although it has relocated three times since the 1920s, it remains the oldest winery on the island having been passed down through generations. Known to have pioneered wine tourism on the island, the D’Ancona Winery still offers tastings. In August, you can even join in during the harvest! (Strada Panoramica, 91017 Pantelleria TP, Italy).
Tasting hours: 10 am to 12 pm and 4:30 pm to 7:30 pm Monday through Friday and 10 am to 12 pm on Saturdays.
Donnafugata
One of the larger estates with vineyards and wineries spanning mainland Sicily, Donnafugata reaches out to Pantelleria. The winery welcomes wine lovers from June 10 to September 20 offering four varied tastings. (GPS Coordinates: N36.805746, E12.02167).
Tasting hours: 12 pm, 4:30 pm, and 7 pm Monday through Friday. Daily in August.
Khamma at night: 9 pm, Wednesdays in July and Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays in August.
Salvatore Murana Vini
Born in the 1970s, Murana Winery claims to be the first on the island to cultivate zibbio grapes making them into wine. The winery and tasting room are separate, but not far from each other on the east side of the Montagna Grande in Mueggen. (Salita Mueggen, 11, 91017 Pantelleria TP, Italy).
Tasting hours: 10 am to 12:30 pm Monday through Friday and 4:30 pm to 6:30 pm Monday through Saturday.
TIP: Go during the summer months if you plan to visit any of the wineries on the island and call ahead to be sure. The locals can also recommend their favorite wineries.
Go Sightseeing & Hiking
Recently named the first national park in Sicily, a large portion of the Isola di Pantelleria became the 24th in Italy. There are crisscrossing trails on the mountains and ancient archaeological sites, coastal paths providing remarkable rock formations and endless views of the Mediterranean Sea.
Arco dell’Elefante
On the eastern coast, the “elephant bow” seems to be taking a sip from the sea. Take a dip and swim under the trunk!
TIP: There is not a car park for the site however; there is room for a few cars to park at the end of the road that leads to the elephant.
Punta Spadillo Lighthouse
One of two lighthouses on the island from the late 19th century, Punta Spadillo is more traditional looking, though in desperate need of TLC. It is located on the northeastern coast and within the boundaries of the national park. Also at the site, the Museo Volcanologico is a small free museum displaying volcanic rocks and WWII artifacts and information about the Isola di Pantelleria.
Sesi Archaeological Park & Villago Protostorico di Mursia
While archaeologists have unearthed structures and relics dating as far back as 35,000 years ago, the remains of the village of Mursia, fortified with a sturdy wall and naturally protected by the cliffs is perched above the sea on the northwestern coast of Pantelleria. Large funerary tombs known as sesi are just south of the village ruins.
TIP: There is not a sign for the village of Mursia, however there is a small area to pull into. It is 900 ft (600 m) north of the Sesi Archaeological Park on Str. Perimetrale where there is also a free parking lot.
Mountains & National Park
Montagna Grande, the “Great Mountain”, is the tallest towering 2,700 feet above sea level. The Great Mountain, Monte Gibele, Cuddia Attalora, and Monte Gelkamar are all former volcanic cones that provide fantastic views when hiking the trails.
Stay in a Traditional Pantescan Home
Originally Arabic, Pantelleria dammusi are traditional single-story homes made of thick lava stone walls and white dome roofs. The sustainable structures keep the home cool in the summer and warm in the winter while repelling harsh temperatures and high winds. The dome roofs collect rainwater draining into nearby cisterns for storage.
I definitely wanted the traditional Pantescan feel when visiting the island and the Pantelleria dammuso I rented on the west coast provided exactly that. From the cane-covered patio to the view of the sea, the dammuso was nearly perfect. Waking to a view of the Mediterranean from bed is the very thing of dreams! Unfortunately, the rain prevented the view of the north coast of Africa from being visible during my stay. A view I was really looking forward to seeing. I suppose I’ll have to return!
How to get there
By plane: Semi-regular flights leave Palermo, Trapani and Catania as well as from Rome, Milan, and Naples during the summer months. It is possible to get a flight out of season too, as I traveled to the island in October. Be mindful the airlines that service the island often cancel the entire service leaving you to find other means of transport. Often, another carrier will pick up the route. I flew with the Poste Italiane when Alitalia canceled their service.
By ferry: Daily high-speed ferry (~2 hours 10 minutes) service during the summer months between Trapani and Pantelleria, except Tuesdays. Daily departures from Trapani at 1:30pm and daily returns from Pantelleria at 4:10pm. (Check Direct Ferries service times from Trapani to Pantelleria.)
How to get around
A rental car is the best way to get around Pantelleria. Do not rely on the bus service and a scooter is not recommended due to the often steep and sometimes rough terrain and dark roads at night. (Book a rental car with Pantel Rent.)
Where to stay
If it’s something you’re into, I definitely recommend staying in a traditional Pantescan home – check out Pantelleria dammusi rentals.
If you prefer a full service stay, the Sikelia, a luxury hotel provides updated contemporary suites in ancient Pantelleria dammusi. They even have a Wine Lab! (Book the Sikelia.)
Where to eat
Osteria Bugeber – Fresh seafood and pasta. The rain drops tapping the tin roof made for a cozy and melodic meal, even though I was one of only a few. (GPS Coordinates: RX5W+94 Bugeber, Pantelleria, TP, Italy).
Bar La Vela – Fresh seafood and pasta. Located right on the waterfront and lined with colorful wooden boats. They present you with a platter of the daily catch, offering a choice of fresh fish, should you chose. (Via dello Scalo, 31, 91017 Scauri TP, Italy).
Where to shop
Emporio Del Gusto – Go for apertivi and a glass of local wine or beer and pick up some traditional Pantescan products to take home. (Via Napoli, 97, 91017 Pantelleria TP, Italy).
Ceramiche de Simone – The place to buy ceramics on the island. Founded in the 1960s, De Simone collections are fantastically unique and still feature Sicilian lifestyle and folklore. (Via Borgo, Italia 91017 Pantelleria TP, Italy).
Have you ever visited Pantelleria?
[…] Pantelleria’s volcanic landscape has created a number of stunning natural attractions that draw visitors from around the world1: […]